Above: Ingrid E, Watercolor, 1908, Esbjörn, 1900 and Children of Carpenter Helberg 1906, Little Lie-A-Bed’s Sad Breakfast, 1900, (The date is confusing, but the museum holding this piece gives 1900 as the date. Based on his daughter’s ages, this was probably Brita or Kersti), Kersti’s Friend Comes Visiting, 1905

When I started The Kirsten Project in 2019, I was pointed toward the work of Swedish artist Carl Larsson by Kirsten series illustrator Renée Graef. Renée told me his work was very influential in the early days at Pleasant Company. I’ve had a lot of fun reviewing all of Larsson’s work and finding elements that I believe inspired both Renée and Pleasant Compant as a whole. Last year, I posted his work featuring farm scenes and the striped fölkläde (apron) that may have inspired Kirsten’s world, but today I’d like to call your attention to another textile that shows up a lot in Carl’s work - narrow blue and white striped fabric.

I have a strong feeling that Kirsten’s summer outfit - a blue and white striped dress with straw hat and black band was based on the watercolor painting Ingrid E in 1908 (top image). It doesn’t end here! There are many examples of Larsson’s wife, sons, daughters (including Kersti!) and home textiles featuring the pale blue and white.

Notice the braids and white piping at the sleeve head of the dress in Little Lie-A-Bed’s Sad Breakfast. I think those elements could have further inspired Kirsten’s summer dress! Could Esbjörn’s little red boot be an inspiration for the red boots the Kirsten doll wears in the catalog?

So what does all this say and how does it relate to Kirsten Saves the Day? Blue and white stripes were a popular textile in the late 1800s into the Edwardian era. That doesn’t mean they didn’t exist in 1854, but they were more of a trend fifty years later (think Samantha’s timeline). The majority of extant blue and white striped dresses I found were all consistent with this period as well. That’s why I think these images inspired Kirsten’s summer dress versus something from the mid 19th century.

Also! There was another time that these stripes were the popular - the 1980s. Other eighties trends we see incorporated into Kirsten’s looks are her blue Meet dress, her hairstyle (bangs) and her Fana sweater. It makes a lot of sense that the time when a product was developed finds it’s way into the design. Can you think of anything else that was decidedly 80s but also works for the 1850s?

A Cozy Corner, Pencil and Watercolor, 1894 Carl Larsson

Playing Scales, 1898, Pencil and Watercolor, Carl Larson

The First Lesson, 1903, Pencil and Watercolor, Carl Larsson

Mother and Daughter, 1903, Watercolor, Carl Larsson

PS. Two of Larsson’s other daughters were named Lisbeth and Brita!

In the late 1820s, women’s fashion shifted from the once high empire waistlines (think Jane Austen era) back down to the natural position. From then until the 1860s, details like sleeves and necklines morph and change, but not as drastically as before or after that time period. A small waist and a wide skirt are the hallmarks of the better part of the 19th century. For children and young teens, one of the popular dress silhouettes we see relatively unchanged from 1820-1870 is the open neck, short sleeve, knee length dress as shown above and below.

It makes sense that if I dress isn’t threadbare by the time the wearer outgrows it, it would be passed on to a younger child. Our ancestors were pretty good at making precious clothing last and unlike today, nothing was disposable. Even the most ratty fabric could be recycled and sold to the Rag and Bone man, who would in turn sell it to a factory to be remade into new (albeit low quality) fabric, called shoddy.

So while women’s sleeves, waist shapes (flat versus pointed) and necklines shift, we see at least one girl’s silhouette remain relatively static. This style of dress, characterized below, is what I imagine a historical version of Kirsten’s birthday dress might be:

Wide Neckline
Gathered Bodice into Waistband
Short Sleeves
Knee to Mid Calf Length Hem

I have seen examples of this style of dress worn plain or layered over a undersleeves with a chemisette or a blouse. Sometimes the pantelettes are matching, but primarily they are white. Accessories like lace gloves appear on upper class children.

It should be mentioned that this isn’t the only girls’ dress silhouette of the mid 19th century, but it is very common. For my costume, I’ve chosen an adult silhouette that echos some of these style details (here’s an early sketch!) Do you see something in these images that reminds you of Kirsten’s birthday dress?